LOCALS ONLY

Locals only
Everywhere is the same. All over the world and in every language. There will always be a bunch of local surfers that don’t want anybody else on their front yard. Obviously, they love to go on surf trips to their neighbour’s front yard, but that’s a different story.
Some of the best days I had this year were in the water with my friends. Some of the best waves I surfed, I shared with my friends. It’s an amazing feeling when everybody’s happy in the water.
[written after reading this post in splashsurfmag. It’s in Portuguese, but the picture tells it all]

A SURFING MORNING


Today’s surfing conditions weren’t the best, but I really wanted to get in the water, and ten days had passed since my last surfing day, so… No more excuses needed.
Woke up at 7AM, left my girl in bed and went surfing.
This picture was taken after the surfing session, in Parede’s beach, where I’ve never surfed, but I’ve seen some pretty good waves. Maybe tomorrow’s the day.
(more pics on Flickr)

SUNDAY @ SÃO PEDRO

São Pedro
Perfect waves at São Pedro. If I wasn’t so tired, and so out of shape it would have been a beautiful morning. But it was nice, though.
A special note to the number of surfers in the water. There were less than ten when I arrived. There were more than fifty a few hours later. Surf schools included. On a single spot.

GOOGLE EARTH CHALLENGE II


Skeleton Bay, Africa – A Google Earth Challenge II discovery
An amazing wave. I didn’t had to time to search more information about this spot, but this is amazing. This guy, Cory Lopez, on his first wave of the day, surfs for 1min and 21 sec.
I’m still drooling.
I can believe that after a week of surfing this wave (ok, a month) one can get a little tired, but…amazing.
[sorry for the autoplay, but I can’t seem so be able to stop the movie]
[I removed the video. You can check it out on the Google Earth Challenge page]